New York Egg Cream

What is an Egg Cream?

Nostalgia for food and beverages of decades past has long placed soda fountains, ice cream parlors, classic diners, and other relics on a culinary pedestal by admirers new and old, but those who grew up in New York City in the 50s will likely add another indulgence to their list: egg cream. Though its exact origin and etymology is a mystery (it contains no egg or cream, but we'll get to that later), we do know egg cream soda is a truly unique New York City creation, a handcrafted drink that's hard to find anywhere else.

Like other nostalgic joys that just don't taste the same when you make them at home, egg cream is much harder to find these days, though the classic beverage still makes its way onto menus at diners, delis, and restaurants across the city.

Egg Cream Origin

Many regional specialties are drenched in mystery and legend, and New York's egg cream is no different. In a New York Times egg cream article1 from 1994, author Michael T. Kaufman wondered whether the name was a mistranslation of a French phrase or simply had been dubbed for its foamy top, being reminiscent of egg whites. Egg cream also has been long associated with the Jewish population, and some believe the name comes from a mistranslated Yiddish phrase instead. Of course, the etymology is impossible to verify, so you can decide which explanation you prefer.

It's hard to prove which New Yorker first invented the drink, which means the boroughs of Brooklyn and Manhattan both claim the egg cream soda as their own2. The drink reached the height of its popularity during the 50s and 60s during the time of candy stores, soda fountains, and luncheonettes. Because the ingredients in an egg cream must be mixed just so and right before serving, egg cream fell out of favor as New Yorkers (and the food and beverage industry) moved on to drinks that were easier and quicker for operators to make.

However, traditions endure for a reason, and egg cream soda remains available in long-running diners and restaurants as well as nostalgia-heavy soda fountains opened in more recent years. Chocolate egg cream is the classic and most popular flavor, but some places still serving this local favorite also offer vanilla.

Egg Cream Recipe

If an egg cream doesn't contain egg or cream, what's in it? Milk, seltzer, and chocolate syrup. Don't let the apparent simplicity of these egg cream ingredients fool you into thinking it's an easy drink to whip up without a little bit of preparation and precision. Some fans of this drink have strong opinions about how to make one "the right way," including which brand of syrup should be used (Fox's U-Bet syrup3 to capture the right flavor), which order your ingredients should go in (seltzer is always last), and the correct ratio of milk to syrup (equal parts, or heavy on the milk?).

To make an egg cream like those served at Veselka Restaurant4 in NYC's East Village, owner Tom Birchard recommends adding two full pumps of syrup and an equal amount of "very cold" milk to a chilled glass, then topping it off with cold seltzer before stirring it up. In an episode of I'll Have What Phil's Having, TV producer and egg cream evangelist Phil Rosenthal also fills up glasses with equal parts syrup and milk (and delights his guests with the foam created by stirring the seltzer).

Wondering how to make an egg cream at home? Although you'll find other recipes that suggest different ratios, we'll stick with the experts on this one and recommend an equal amount of milk and syrup, too. You'll also need some seltzer; any brand will do, just make sure it's cold.

Egg Cream Ingredients

  • Whole milk
  • Chocolate syrup
  • Seltzer, chilled

How to Make an Egg Cream

  1. In a 16-ounce pint glass, add between 2 and 4 ounces of chocolate syrup and an equal amount of milk.
  2. Slowly add seltzer and use a bar spoon to stir your ingredients together, letting a white foam form in the top of the glass.
  3. Drink immediately and enjoy!

References

  1. Egg Cream Diaspora: Bottling of a City Nectar. The New York Times. Accessed December 2020.
  2. History of the Egg Cream Soda. Imbibe Magazine. Accessed December 2020.
  3. Fox's U-Bet Syrups. Gold's Brand. Accessed December 2020.
  4. How to Make the Perfect Egg Cream. YouTube. Accessed December 2020.